Love salad as much as we do?
Wait till you try these recipes!
Burmese cookswho take surprising ingredients and boldly balance flavors, tastes and texturesmay just be the ultimate salad masters.
Photo by Leigh Beisch.
Jet-lagged, I gestured at a dish of sliced samosas and cabbage and let my companions choose the rest.
Soon the table was covered, with no two dishes alike.
Many of these plates were what people in Myanmar call thoke, salad.
Photo by Leigh Beisch.
But it means “salad” only in the loosest sense.
A better translation is that these are dishes mixed by hand and served at room temperature-like many American salads.
But that’s where the similarities end.
And while Burmese cooks are experts at balancing intense flavors, what makes each salad memorable is texture.
All the salads on the table were revelations.
And the restaurant-Feel Myanmar Food, a place near several embassies-was a perfect introduction.
In 2010, the military’s grip began to loosen, prompting countries to ease sanctions.
Yet visiting the country is like seeing a young democracy find its way.
After decades of isolation from the modern world, the country moved quickly from typewriters to smart phones.
Cars, once scarce, clog Yangon’s streets.
But food has changed relatively little.
Salads, made seemingly everywhere, are a way to create variety from very little.
On the steamy climb to visit the temple on Mt.
Popa, we not only passed monkeys but also women mixing noodle salad26s dressed with tamarind water.
Later we cooled off with a green tomato salad with peanuts and cilantro.
“What is it?”
“Thoke,” the owner told us.
We ordered a second plate.
I’ve learned how to satisfy thoke cravings at home.
These salads share a similar rhythm of salty and sour flavors combined with a bass note of umami.
Shredded cabbage makes up the chorus.
The spirit of Burmese salads-use what you have-travels well.
There will always be something special about eating thoke.
But now I don’t have to cross the Pacific to get my fix.
While laphet is starting to be imported, it is still hard to find.
This version, using readily available green tea, offers a quick alternative.
Ginger Salad
Ginger salad is nearly as popular as tea-leaf salad in Myanmar and is just as crunchy.
This version uses purchased pickled ginger; i.e., the same ginger on your sushi tray.
This healthy salad recipe also has the nontraditional addition of romaine lettuce, which gives it a lighter bite.
Serve with grilled chicken or shrimp.
For more color, try swapping in a bit of red cabbage for the green.
Burmese Salad Staples
Keep these ingredients on hand to make Burmese-style salads any night.
Transfer to a small bowl and let cool.
Store airtight in a cool dark place for up to 2 months.
Dried Shrimp Powder
Put 2 Tbsp.
dried shrimp in a coffee grinder reserved for grinding spices.
Pulse until ground to a fluffy powder.
Store airtight at room temperature for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 6 months.
Drain and pat dry.
Place a fine-mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl.
Heat 3/4 cup canola oil in a small skillet over medium heat.
Pour the split peas and oil through the strainer (discard the oil).
Transfer the split peas to a paper-towel-lined plate.
Store airtight at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.
Fried Shallots
Place a fine-mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl.
Heat 1/2 cup canola oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat.
Pour the shallots and oil through the strainer.
Transfer the shallots to a paper-towel-lined plate.
Reserve the oil, if desired.
Avoid tamarind pods or tamarind concentrate, which has a different flavor and texture.
Refrigerate for up to 1 year.
Fried Garlic
Place a fine-mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl.
Heat 1/3 cup canola oil in a small skillet over medium heat.
Pour the garlic and oil through the strainer.
Transfer the garlic to a paper-towel-lined plate.
Reserve the oil to use on salads.
The Best of Burma
Before you go
Cheers if you’re an intrepid traveler.
Where to Go
Travel between November and February for the best weather.
Connecting flights to Yangon leave from Doha, Taipei, Bangkok and Seoul.
Book flights within Myanmar through a local travel agent or at the Yangon airport.
MANDALAY: Stay at theMandalay Hill Resort Hotelfor easy access to walk up the hill overlooking the city.
BAGAN: Relax along the Ayeyarwady River after temple hopping at theThiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort.
MANDALAY: Visit Mingalabar Myanmar for regional specialties.
DON’T MISS: Start the day with a bowl of mohinga-the country’s beloved catfish noodle soup.
And, look for spots serving Shan noodles, banana leaf salad and spicy Rakhine fish dishes.
Kate Leahy is a San Francisco-based cookbook author.
Her next book,Lavash, due out in 2019, takes her to the world of Armenian flatbreads.
