Mornings begin quietly on a small communal farm called OtraCosa in Caguas, Puerto Rico.

Steep mountains delay the sunrise, providing an extra hour of peace before the day begins.

Calls for food sovereignty in Puerto Rico have become more urgent in recent years.

A person wearing a sun hat picking food in a communal farm in Puerto Rico

Tara Rodríguez Besosa started the farm OtraCosa to provide for the members of their queer chosen family.Mara Corsino

These environmental factors are further complicated by colonialism and U.S. government policies.

In all, these compounding factors create the perfect storm that has led to an unsustainable food system.

Today, a small team of volunteers and staff at El Depa are working to weather that storm.

The exterior of a building in Puerto Rico

The collective house at OtraCosa.Mara Corsino

They distribute heirloom seeds free of charge, loan out farm equipment, share farming skills and hold workshops.

Seed saving and distribution is critical to this vision.

“There is no food sovereignty without seed sovereignty,” says Rodriguez Besosa.

two people sitting in front of a building in Puerto Rico

Tara Rodríguez Besosa sits in front of the collective house at OtraCosa. Chef Verónica Quiles Maldonado sits in the background.Mara Corsino

“No project is too small.

“We are not trying to feed a whole island.

We’re trying to support the island to feed itself.”

A woman squeezing a lime into a bowl

Chef Verónica Quiles Maldonado relies almost entirely on ingredients grown and foraged on the island. Even the salt used is local—it comes from the Cabo Rojo salt flats in southwest Puerto Rico.

She teaches Food Studies at UNC-Chapel Hill and her forthcoming book explores the foodways of islands around the globe.

close up of hands grabbing produce from a bowl

A variety of produce sitting on a orange tile surface with a green painted wooden surface in the background

Mara Corsino

Asopao de Gandules (Pigeon Pea Stew)

Jenny Huang

Guanimes con Berenjena Guisada (Guanimes with Stewed Eggplant)

Jenny Huang

Ensalada de la Huerta con Vinagreta de Guayaba (Harvest Salad with Guava Vinaigrette)

Jenny Huang

Sopa de Calabaza Rostizada (Roasted Pumpkin Soup)

Jenny Huang

Raíces Isleñas con Pesto de Cilantrillo y Aguacate (Island Roots with Cilantro Pesto & Avocado)

Jenny Huang

Tostones with Mayo-Ketchup Dipping Sauce

Puerto Rican Mofongo Dressing with Salami

a hand squeezing a pastry bag with deviled egg filling

A mural in Little Havana

Paches

a recipe photo of the Quinotto

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A person in a green house with a bunch of plant starters

a photo of Jennifer Lopez

Sopa de Calabaza Rostizada (Roasted Pumpkin Soup)

Sonoko Sakai standing next to a table with a a salad and a pot of miso soup next to a bowl of Chicken Miso Curry

a recipe photo of the My Mom’s Shrimp And Okra Gumbo

Andrea Nguyen family cookbook

Migration Meals Illustration: Pot of soup with people around it

Tinola (Filipino Ginger-Garlic Chicken Soup)